Archive for the ‘Free Pattern’ Category

Friday: Fiber History

October 30, 2009

First let me thank everyone who has commented with a suggestion about a fiber artist so far. My first few e-mails will be going out today.

Because I want to kick start the Friday Fiber Artist collectively, today will be dedicated to Fiber History. (Because, well, why not?)

I have been knee deep in Victorian historical research for the past week. In that vein I wanted to give you a couple of Victorian patterns that I have come across (and admired.)

First the Princess Crocheted Workbag. Not only is it gorgeous, but Mary Schlueter also provided translation, making the pattern workable from a modern day American perspective.

princess crochet bag

Doesn’t it look incredibly intricate? The instructions aren’t terribly complicated, and now I have a serious case of bag-envy. That seems to be a natural state for me though.

Second, from the same site: Infant’s Knitted Bootee . Unfortunately there is no gauge or yarn or needle size but hey, that just adds to the adventure!

Looking at them though, I wonder if it wasn’t done with sewing thread, because these look like terribly intricate booties to fit on a infant foot. Hmmm. Betcha if you use worsted weight and sz 5’s you could make an “Adult’s Knitted Bootee”

knitted_bootee_small

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Free Pattern: Knit Cube Sachet

August 6, 2009

So today’s free pattern is a sachet, besides making your clothes smell fresh, sachets that hold lavender or cloves also protect wool of all sorts from moths. With that in mind I made a small sachet that is quick to make and small enough to easily be thrown in either a draw, project bag, or storage bin.

Why a cube, because while knitting the mitered squares, I remembered a bit of oragami I once did, where I had to fold a cube out of one continuous piece of paper (don’t worry, it’s fun!)

sachet 1

Materials: 1 ball of Sugar ‘n Cream tumbleweed or another worsted weight cotton yarn

US size 4 needles

Tapestry needle

Gauge: 1 mitered square is about 2″ x 2″ but  the important thing about gauge is that it should be tight enough to keep the lavender buds or cloves from falling out.

cube

Here’s the basic cube assembly, the color coded sides will be knit together in the pattern, the other sides must be sewn to each other after the fact.

For Square 1:

Cast On 14 sts

Row 1: Purl across

Row 2: Knit 5, SSK, K2tog, Knit 5 (12 sts)

Row 3: Purl across

Row 4: Knit 4, SSK, K2tog, Knit 4 (10 sts)

Row 5: Purl across

Row 6: Knit 3, SSK, K2tog, Knit 3 (8 sts)

Row 7: Purl across

Row 8: Knit 2, SSK, K2tog, Knit 2 (6 sts)

Row 9: Purl across

Row 10: Knit 1, SSK, K2tog, Knit 1 (4 sts)

Row 11: Purl Across

Row 12: SSK, K2tog (2 sts)

Row 13: Purl across

Row 14: K2tog (1 st)

Square 2:

Leaving the stitch on the needle pick up and knit 6 stitches along the right side of square 1 and cast on 7 stitches using the cable method. Repeat rows 1-14

Square 3:

Leaving the stitch on the needle pick up and knit 6 stitches along the right side of square 2 and cast on 7 stitches using the cable method. Repeat rows 1-12

Row 13: P2tog (1 st)

Square 4:

Leaving the stitch on the needle pick up and purl 6 stitches along the left side of square 3 and cast on 7 stitches using the cable method. Knit across all sts then repeat rows 1-14

Square 5:

Leaving the stitch on the needle pick up and knit 6 stitches along the right side of square 4 and pick up and knit 7 stitches from the side of square 3. (14 sts) Repeat rows 1-14

Square 6:

Leaving the stitch on the needle pick up and knit 6 stitches along the right side of square 5 and pick up and knit 7 stitches from the remaining side of square 3. (14 sts) Repeat rows 1-14

Break yarn.

For the assembly should be fairly apparent at this point, and all you have to do is turn it inside out,  sew all but one of the sides closed, flip it right side out, fill it with either lavender or cloves and stitch that last part closed.

Voila! A cube sachet.

sachet 2

Thursday Pattern: Crochet Men’s Hat

July 30, 2009

Okay, to keep to my promise here’s the second charity themed men’s hat. This is crocheted in a very bulky fashion with the yarn held double, so it’s very fast to crochet. I like this because it’s great for emergency gifts and charity.

Now remember the entire purpose of this and last week’s men’s hats is a charity theme so if you are interested in donating hats or any other item here are a few charity groups:

Knits for Needs (take both knitted and crocheted items- requested men’s hats not long ago)

Project Linus – takes 40″x60″ size blankets for security blankets for terminally ill children.

The Mother Bear Project – send stuffed bears to children whose lives have been affected by HIV or AIDS (you have to buy the pattern from them, but as the money goes to getting the bears into the hands of these kids, can you begrudge them?)

Disabled American Veterans– This is a charity that has taken on new meaning to us as more and younger men come back from war wounded. I have to say that this is the charity I had in mind when I designed the two hats.

With no more further ado, the pattern:

Materials: Lion Brand Organic Cotton, 1 skein each of Macadamia and Pecan

Size M crochet hook

Replacement yarn: about 70 yds of any 2 colors of aran weight yarn

Gauge: 4 sts / 3 rows per 2 inches

hat

Holding 2 yarns as one, create an adjustable loop, chain(ch) 1, half-double crochet (hdc) into the loop 8 times and pull it tight, slip stitch (sl st) into the first hdc to join, ch 1.

Row 1: 2 hdc in each stitch of previous round, sl st to join, ch 1 (16 sts)

Row 2: 1 hdc in first st, 2 hdc in next st, repeat 8 times, {if desired drop one of the yarns before finishing the last st and holding 2 yarns of the same color as 1, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the hook} sl st to join, ch 1(24 sts)

Row3 3: 1 hdc in first 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat 8 times, sl st to join, ch1 (32 sts)

Row 4: hdc in every stitch of previous round{if desired drop one of the yarns before finishing the last st and holding 2 yarns of different colors, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the hook} sl st to join, ch 1 (32 sts)

Row 5-11: hdc in every stitch of previous round, each round changing one color of the 2 yarns you hold (sl st to join, ch 1)

Row 12: hdc in every stitch of previous round repeating the color combination of the previous round, sl  st to join, break yarn and weave in ends.

Thursday Free Pattern: Shell Hunter Bag

July 16, 2009

The charity themed men’s hat patterns will be starting next week, mostly because I wanted to put up 2 patterns each week, a quick and easy basic pattern that could be altered to anyone’s tastes, and  a different one, that due to construction, color, or concept is not your typical ‘men’s hat.’

I know, I keep doing this to myself, but what fun is life if you don’t keep setting the bar a bit higher? 😉

So for this week’s pattern I will give you something that I thought was appropriate for the sunny weather. I created this for those of us who are a bit to old to bring a pail and shovel, but still love to hunt for shells.  The bag turned out so cute and versatile, that I had to share it.

sea bag

Materials: 1 skein Lily’s Sugar ‘n Cream in Hot Green

Hook size K (10 ½ or 6.5 mm)

Stitch marker for marking the beginning of round (optional)

 

Gauge: 3 sts / 3 rows = 1 inch (gauge is approximate)

 

Pattern:

Bag:

Sc 6 sts into magic ring

Round 1: working in spiral, work 2 sc of each st of previous round (12 sts)

Round 2: work 1 sc into first st and 2 sc in the next st; repeat until end of round (18sts)

Round 3: work 1 sc into first 2 sts and 2 sc into next st; repeat until end of round (24sts)

Round 4: work 1 sc into first 3 sts and 2 sc into next st; repeat until end of round (30 sts)

Round 5: work 1 sc into first 4 sts and 2 sc into next st; repeat until end of round (36 sts)

Round 6: work 1 sc into first 5 sts and 2 sc into next st; repeat until end of round (42 sts)

Round 7: work 1 sc into first 6 sts and 2 sc into next st; repeat until end of round (48 sts)

Round 8: work 1 sc into each st of previous round (48 sts)

Round 9: repeat round 8

Round 10: repeat round 8

Round 11: repeat round 8

Round 12: repeat round 8

Beginning of Moss stitch pattern

Round 13: sc in first st, * ch 1, skip 1 st, and sc into following st; repeat until end of round, ch 1.

Round 14: sc into ch 1 space of prev round, ch 1; repeat until end of round.

 

Repeat round 14 for 4 inches or for 8 rounds.

 

Round 23: sc into ch 1 space of prev round, sc into sc of previous round, repeat around (48 sts)

Round 24: sc into each sc of previous round (48 sts)

Round 25: repeat round 24

Round 26: hdc in first st, * ch 1, skip 1 st, and hdc into following st; repeat until end of round, ch 1

Round 27: sc into ch 1 space of prev round, sc into sc of previous round, repeat around (48 sts)

Round 28:  sc into each sc of previous round; ch 1 and turn (48 sts)

Round 29: sc into next 5 sts, ch1 and turn (5sts)

Round 30: sc into 5 sts, ch1 and turn (5 sts)

 

Repeat round 30 for 15 rows or 7 inches; then break yarn leaving a long tail that you can use to sew the handle to the top of the opposite side.

 

Drawstring: ch 60, sc into second ch from hook, and into each following chain stitch, break yarn and weave in ends. Weave drawstring through the ch1 spaces between hdc stitches.

shell bag 2

Thursday Free Pattern: Mister Mouse

July 9, 2009

mister mouse 2

 

Materials: Lily Sugar ‘n Cream in warm brown, 1/2 a skein

set of 4 double pointed needles sz 3

Black embrodiery thread or yarn for eyes and pink for nose and ears.

Tapestry Needle

Gauge: 6 1/2 sts, 9 rows per inch

Pattern:

Head and Body (make 1):

CO 3 sts

Row 1: Do not turn, slide to right pulling yarn behind and knit as in I-cord.

Row 2: Move each of the three stitches to a dpn, Kf+b (knit front and back) of each stitch (6 sts)

Row 3: Knit all sts

Row 4: On each needle, knit to last stitch, Kf+b (9 sts)

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until there are 18 sts (6 sts on each needle)

Row 11: Knit all sts

Row 12: k2tog, k2, ssk repeat across (12 sts)

Row 13: Knit all sts

Row 14: On each needle, knit to last stitch, Kf+b (15 sts)

Repeat rows  13 and 14 until there are 36 sts (12 on each needle)

Row 28: Knit all sts (36 sts)

Repeat row 28  for 2 ” or about 18 rows

(now we begin to decrease for the mouse butt)

Row 47: k2tog , knit 4, repeat to end of round (30 sts)

Row 48: knit all sts

Row 49: k2tog , knit 3, repeat to end of round (24 sts)

Row 50: knit all sts

Row 51: k2tog, knit 2 repeat to end of round  (18 sts)

**now is a good time to stuff the mouse**

Row 50: knit all sts

Row 51: k2tog, knit 1, repeat until end of round (12 sts)

Row 52: knit all sts

Row 53: k2tog across round (6 sts)

Row 54: k2tog across round (3 sts)

Move last 3 sts onto 1 dpn and continue for 4 inches in I-cord

 

Ears (make 2)

CO 8 sts

Row 1: knit across

Row 2: knit 5, wrap and turn

Row 3: knit 2, wrap and turn

Row 4: knit 2, k2tog across gap, wrap and turn

Row 5: knit 3, k2tog across gap, wrap and turn

Row 6: knit 4, k2tog across gap, wrap and turn

Row 7: knit 5 k2tog across gap, wrap and turn

Row 8: knit 6, k2tog across gap and turn

Row 9: knit 7, k2tog across gap

Bind off

Fold ear in half, sewing flat end together, then sewing on to mouse’s head.

 

mister mouse 1

Thursday Pattern: Tommy the Tortoise

July 2, 2009

tommy 2tortoise_photo

Okay, so they’re not exact twins, still you could imagine my suprise when my Tommy the Turtle pattern turned into Tommy the Galapagos Tortise. It all happened while I was sewing Tommy’s legs on…

Materials: Lion Brand Cotton Ease in Lime, and Lily’s Sugar ‘n Cream in Summer Splash, about 2/3 skein of each.

Hook: US G

Tapestry needle.

2 safety eyes (or thread to embroider eyes on)

Fiberfill, or another type of stuffing.

Gauge: The exact gauge is not important, as long as it is tight enough to keep the stuffing from popping through.

 

Pattern Notes:

All decreases in the pattern are invisible decreases: insert hook into front leg of next stitch, insert hook through front leg of following stitch; yarn over, and pull through both legs. Yarn over and pull through both stitches on hook.

 

Body:

Create adjustable ring and make 6 sc within it. (Round 1), pull tail to tighten ring.

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc of previous round (12 sts)

Round 3:* sc in first stitch, 2 sc in next stitch; repeat from * around (18 sts)

Round 4: sc in each sc of prev. round (18 sts)

Round 5: *sc in first 2 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch; repeat from * around (24 sts)

Round 6-7: sc in each sc of prev. round (24 sts(

Round 8: *sc in next 2 stitches of prev. round, dec in next 2; repeat from * around (18 sts)

 

You may want to stop at this point and place the safety eyes or embroider them on. I Put the eyes between the 6th and 7th rounds, but the final placement, of course, is up to you.

 

Round 9: *sc in next stitch, decrease in next 2 sts; repeat from * around (12 sts)

Round 10-13: sc in each sc of previous round. (12 sts)

Round 14: * sc in first stitch, 2 sc in next stitch; repeat from * around (18 sts)

Round 15:  *sc in first 2 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch; repeat from * around (24 sts)

Round 16: *sc in first 3 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch; repeat from * around (30 sts)

Round 17: sc in each stitch of previous round (30 sts)

Round 18: *sc in first 4 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch; repeat from * around (36 sts)

Round 19-25: sc in each stitch of previous round (36 sts)

Round 26: *sc in first 4 stitches, decrease in next 2; repeat from * around (30 sts)

Round 27: sc in each stitch of previous round (30 sts)

Round 28: *sc in first 3 stitches, decrease in next 2; repeat from * around (24 sts)

Round 29: sc in each stitch of previous round (24 sts)

Round 30: *sc in first 2 stitches, decrease in next 2; repeat from * around (18 sts)

Round 31-32: sc in each stitch of previous round (18 sts)

 

I suggest pausing here to stuff the body with whatever medium you choose. This, in my opinion is the easiest point.

 

Round 33: *sc in first stitch, decrease in next 2; repeat from * around (12 sts)

Round 34*: decrease in first 2 stitches; repeat from * around (6 sts)

 

Finish whatever stuffing needs to be done. Break yarn, using a yarn needle bring it through the loops of the last 6 stitches and tie it off, then use the needle to leave the tail inside the body.

 

Legs (right side) Make 2:

Make and adjustable ring and put 8 sc into ring, pull tail tight (Round 1)

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch of prev. round (16 sts)

Round 3: sc into back leg of each stitch of prev. round (16 sts)

Round 4: sc in first stitch, dec 4 times, sc in next 7 sts (12 sts)

Round 5-9: sc in each stitch of previous round. (12 sts)

Round 10: sc in first 3 sts, slip stich in next stitch, turn.

Round 11: skipping slip stitch, sc in next 4 sts, slip stich in next st, turn.

Round 12: sc in each open (easily visible) stitch. (10 sts)

Round 13-16: sc in each st of previous round (10 sts) break yarn and pull through loop leaving a long tail

Stuff leg,  and sew leg onto body.

 

Legs (left side) Make 2:

Make and adjustable ring and put 8 sc into ring, pull tail tight (Round 1)

Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch of prev. round (16 sts)

Round 3: sc into back leg of each stitch of prev. round (16 sts)

Round 4: sc in first stitch, dec 4 times, sc in next 7 sts (12 sts)

Round 5-9: sc in each stitch of previous round. (12 sts)

Round 10: sc in first 6 sts, slip stich in next stitch, turn.

Round 11: skipping slip stitch, sc in next 4 sts, slip stich in next st, turn.

Round 12: sc in each open (easily visible) stitch. (10 sts)

Round 13-16: sc in each st of previous round (10 sts) break yarn and pull through loop leaving a long tail

Stuff leg,  and sew leg onto body.

 

Shell:

Chain 4

Round 1: 2 sc in second chain from hook, 1 sc in next chain, 2 sc in last, then turn to work along back of chain sts, making 2 more sc in the chain, then 1 in next stitch and 2 in the next sts, slip st to join. (10 sts)

Round 2: Chain 2 (counts as first dc) double crochet in same stitch as slip stitch 2 double crochet in each chain st, slip st to 2ndturning chain. (20 sts)

Round 3: chain 2 (counts as first dc), 2 double crochets in next stitch * one double crochet in next st, 2 double crochet in the next st; repeat from * to end of round, slip st to join (30 sts)

Round 4: chain 2, double crochet in next st, 2 double crochet in next st, * one double crochet in next 2 sts, 2 double crochet in next st; repeat from * until end of round, slip st to join (40 sts)

Round 5: chain 2, double crochet  in next 2 sts, 2 double crochet in next st, * one double crochet in next 3 sts, 2 double crochet in next st; repeat from * until end of round, slip st to join (50 sts)

Break yarn and use tail to sew shell to body, along the edge of the 4thround.

 tommy 1

Now you have your very own Galapagos Tortoise. I hope he lives as long as the real ones do!!